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Report from Saudarkrokur

Published 26-Oct-1993 in the Denver Post
Copyright ©1993 by Ed Quillen. All rights reserved.

Our older daughter, 18-year-old Columbine, left Colorado the day that the Pope and president arrived in August, bound for a year as a Rotary exchange student in Saudarkrokur, Iceland.

Given that I've just been reading my favorite non-best-seller, Men who Hang out with the Tree Sloths, I'll put her to work today as a foreign correspondent, and pass on some of what she's told us about Iceland.

It's not a big place, about 40,000 square miles of volcanic mountains and glaciers, with hardly any trees. If you filled Colorado with water up to 11,000 feet, she reports, it would look something like Iceland, though it's much wetter here -- waterfalls everywhere -- and Colorado doesn't have geysers or bubbling fields of hot mud.

Thanks to the volcanic activity, steam and hot water are abundant natural resources which are put to work heating houses and the like. Columbine has a 15-year-old sister here, and one at her host family. They asked me what my sister and I argued about at home, and I said we often fought because someone had just taken a long shower and used all the hot water. No matter how much I explained, they couldn't imagine ever running out of hot water. In an Icelandic house, you'd run out of air before you ran out of hot water.

She attends Saudarkroker College, where she has four classes: English literature, German, trig and Icelandic.

The 300,000 people of Iceland are the only people on earth who speak Icelandic, a language which has changed little from the Old Norse spoken in 900 A.D. when the Vikings landed. It's very inflected and it has three genders. I'm getting to where I can understand people if they speak slowly, but I don't know if I'll ever be able to speak it well. People are very polite, but it's obvious that I'm not even close on the grammar and syntax even when I know what nouns and verbs to use.

Trig isn't so bad, since she took it here and I know what's going on, even if I don't understand a word in the book. Numbers are numbers. Taking a German class taught in Icelandic is about as impossible as anything could be.

On the bright side, The English class is all in English, so I'm doing pretty well there. But the students and the teacher were all much better read in English lit than I was. They really push English hard in the academic program because their best students will go to the University, where they'll have to use English textbooks because there are no Icelandic texts in advanced courses -- the population of Iceland is just too small to support specialized texts and research materials.

She noted that she had to explain Columbus Day because they'd never heard of him. As far as they're concerned, Leif Ericsson discovered America, and they're very proud of him.

Diversity is not a strong point of Iceland, which has one of the most homogeneous populations on earth, almost entirely Nordic. I look like most people here, she said, except for one thing. This is a little town that doesn't get many tourists. So little kids come up to me and stare because they've never seen anyone with brown eyes before.


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